For example, if the grit is too coarse for polishing wood, it can leave grooves instead of smoothness. ![]() Also, it's important to avoid an unsatisfactory aesthetic result. The main reason why the right grit is critical is to avoid surface damage. This is because finer grits helps to remove grooves or roughness left by coarser sanding products. Many sanding projects require a coarser grit at the beginning and a finer grit at the end. Sandpaper comes with a grit number grade. ![]() Also, there are angled or circular sandpaper discs that stick to power tools. For instance, there are larger sandpaper sheets for sanding heads that attach to poles. In addition to there being different grits, there are various sizes and types. People may sand objects by hand or with special tools. The abrasive substance is attached firmly with glue. Sandpaper is a special craft paper with an abrasive substance on one side. First, it's important to understand what sandpaper is and the different grit materials and numbers. What is the finest grit of sandpaper? What grit of sanding paper for wood is better? How about metal? This guide will answer those questions and more. I’ll be adding to this chart as I get more statistics, but this chart is a good first stab.īelow you can download an Excel spreadsheet (and modify it if you please) and a pdf of the chart for those readers who aren’t chartered accountants.You have a project that requires sanding, but which sandpaper is right for your needs? Choosing the right grit is more important than most people realize. ![]() Please keep in mind that these are published statistics I have no way (or desire) to measure the actual particle size or consistency of the media. – Other stuff (diamond paste, green compound, ceramic diamond media) – Man-made stones (silicon carbide and aluminum oxide) So with the help of readers and published statistics, I’ve put together a spreadsheet of common sharpening media and converted them to microns for you. So the smaller the number in microns, the finer the grit. One micron is one-millionth of a meter (hey, I just used the metric system). A micron is a measurement of the diameter of each particle of grit in your stone and paper. Now I don’t want to bore you with a discussion of microns, but here’s the short explanation. The good news is that you can convert all sharpening media to microns and get a better picture of where your sharpening stone or paper is in the continuum from cinderblock (coarse) up to baby’s behind (very fine). Your edge won’t improve when you move to the extra-fine stone. Well good luck, both of these stones are the same grit (22 micron). Here’s an example: Say you want to use a soft Arkansas oilstone as your coarse stone and an extra-fine India (aluminum oxide) stone to finish things up. Just start with the coarse media and proceed to the fine one.īut if you start mixing brands or systems, you can get in trouble. If you stick with one system and one brand (say, you use Norton waterstones exclusively), this isn’t a problem. The reason is that sandpaper, waterstones, oilstones, diamond stones and silicon carbide stones all use different systems to tell you how coarse or how fine the material is. (Heck, #1,000-grit sandpaper in the United States isn’t the same as #1,000-grit sandpaper in Europe.) ![]() A #1,000-grit waterstone isn’t the same grit as #1,000-grit sandpaper. Your edges get keener but you get more confused about the “grits” used in the process. Once you get serious about sharpening, two things happen.
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